老饕才知道的冉冉新星:日本「御料理 ふじ居」精緻呈現富山當季的精華
日本北陸富山灣的海鮮聞名於世,約有 500 種的海鮮棲息於此,對於美食愛好者來說,北陸地區是曖曖內含光的寶石,除了聞名的甜美白蝦之外,春天的螢光烏賊也可以說是日本之最。而富山最具代表的日本料理店之一「御料理 藤井居」在「米其林指南北陸2021特別版」中獲得了二星。除此之外,還入選了日本時報的「2023年目的地餐廳名單」。在「御料理 藤井居」的菜單中,每一道料理都體現了主廚對食材的理解和精湛的技藝。
九月初到訪時,正是香魚最肥、最好吃的時候。長約13公分的細小天然香魚,經過抹鹽處理後在炭火上烤制,散髮出誘人的焦香。皮薄肉嫩,鰭尾酥脆。主廚使用特製的長針刺穿香魚,並以頭低尾高的方式在炭火上斜烤,使得油脂逐漸流向魚頭,在高溫下將其烤至金黃酥脆,香氣濃郁。為了讓香氣更加飽滿,主廚還採用日本茶將其熏制,上桌時伴隨著一縷白煙。第一口從魚頭開始,淡雅的苦味逐漸轉化為回甘的滋味。魚腹的魚皮薄如紙,魚肉鮮嫩,甘苦尾韻與魚骨的酥脆相互交融。沾上一點蓼酢,香魚的甘甜更加鮮明。魚鰭與尾部金黃焦脆,炭火的煙薰香氣滿溢其中,讓人回味。
香魚釜飯是又一傑作。揭開鍋蓋的瞬間,魚香與米香撲面而來,數十尾香魚整齊鋪滿在米飯上,十分壯觀。與單純的炭烤香魚不同,釜飯中的香魚在與米飯同蒸時,最精華的油脂和鮮味滲透到每一顆米粒中。主廚小心去除魚頭與骨頭,保留嫩滑的魚肉,並細緻地將其拌勻,使每一口米飯都被魚的精華包裹。米飯與魚的甘苦味道融為一體,濃縮了夏天的精華。
「御料理 ふじ居」不斷提升,提供極致的富山本地食材的極致體驗,以富山的時令食材打造出獨特的料理,而我也期待下一個季節再次拜訪。
Toyama’s Rrising Star of Japanese Cuisine: Oryouri Fujii
In early September this year, I visited a series of destination restaurants in Toyama and Kanazawa, located in Japan’s Hokuriku region.The seafood of Toyama Bay is renowned worldwide, with around 500 species inhabiting its waters. For food lovers, Hokuriku is a hidden gem.
One of the most iconic Japanese restaurants in Toyama, Oryouri Fujii, was awarded two stars in the Michelin Guide Hokuriku 2021 Special Edition. Additionally, it was also selected into “Destination Restaurants 2023“ list by The Japan Times.
From the menu, the Sweetfish Pot Rice was a masterpiece. As the lid was lifted, the aroma of the fish and rice filled the air, revealing dozens of sweetfish neatly arranged over the rice. Unlike the charcoal-grilled sweetfish, the pot rice allowed the fish to steam together with the rice, permeating each grain with the fat and umami of the fish. The chef carefully removed the head and bones, ensuring the tender fish meat was evenly mixed into the rice, making each bite flavorful.
Oryouri Fujii continues to refine and provide the ultimate dining experience with local Toyama ingredients, creating dishes that capture the essence of Toyama‘s seasonal flavors. I eagerly anticipate my next visit to see what the new season will bring.
@jocelyn_tastytrip @fujii0608
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